For whatever reasons the car does not start - the starter turns but does not grasp. Why does the engine not "seize" when starting the engine: the main reasons and what to do for the driver Grabs but does not start

1. Check the serviceability of the engine power system elements.
2. Check and repair possible malfunctions of the engine management system after turning on the ignition.
3. Actions depending on the thermal state of the engine:
   • If the air temperature (TAIR parameter) is below minus 25 ° C, then starting the engine without preliminary preheating of the oil in the crankcase and the coolant is not recommended. The use of a starting charger operating from a 220 V network is not allowed at an air temperature below -30 ° C.
   • If the air temperature is -5 ...- 20 ° C, it is recommended to warm up the engine receiver with warm water before starting. The time for starting cranking of the engine should be no more than 10 seconds, repeated cranking is allowed no earlier than after 1 minute.
   • Purge the cylinders with air before starting when the air and coolant temperatures are below 0 ° C or when 2-3 start attempts have failed. To do this, press the accelerator pedal all the way down and perform a starter cranking of the engine for (3 ± 1) seconds. Upon completion of scrolling, check the condition of the battery, if the voltage of the on-board network (parameter UACC) is below 11.8 V, then carry out the battery maintenance.
   • It is not recommended to start the engine from an overheated state when the coolant temperature (TWAT parameter) exceeds 100 ° C, and the air temperature in the receiver is more than 65 ° C.

1. Do not press the accelerator pedal before turning on the ignition.
2. Switch on the ignition. Perform the necessary actions in accordance with the "General recommendations before starting the engine".
3. Do not proceed to launch if:
   • the electric fuel pump has not turned off yet;
   • if the engine malfunction lamp is on.
4. Turn on the starter cranking of the engine for the time required for a stable start, but not more than 10 seconds.
5. If the engine does not start, go to the analysis of situations of unsuccessful engine start.

1. The engine crankshaft does not rotate when the ignition key is set to the “Starter” position. There is no dip (up to 10 V and below) in the voltage of the onboard network, observed by the oscillogram of the UACC parameter. Self-diagnosis does not fix trouble codes.
2. • the starter control or power supply circuits are defective;
   • the starter relay is faulty;
   • the starter or its retractor relay is faulty.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5 ° C. When the ignition key is set to the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft rotates weakly. The voltage drop of the on-board network observed by the indicator is below 7 V. Information communication with the control unit is interrupted.
2. Check and eliminate possible faults:
   • Insufficient charge or battery malfunction. Perform maintenance on the battery or replace it with a good one.
   • There is no reliable connection of the starter power circuits to the battery or to the engine mass.
   • The starter motor is defective. Replace starter.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5 ° C. With the ignition key in the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft rotates steadily. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 200 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit does not fix system malfunctions or fixes individual fault codes for the primary control circuits of the ignition coils 91 ... 98, 231 ... 238, 241 ... 248.
   • Check the condition of the power supply (27b, 27c) and ignition coil control (1, 20) circuits.
2. The engine coolant temperature is above 5 ° C. With the ignition key in the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft rotates steadily. Parameter FREQ = 0 rpm. Self-diagnostics of the unit does not record system malfunctions.
   • Check the condition of the crankshaft position sensor wiring harness (48, 49) circuits and the condition of the sensor itself.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5 ° C. When the ignition key is set to the “Starter” position, the engine “grabs” and stops. Flashbacks to the engine intake manifold are observed. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 400 rpm. Self-diagnostics of the unit fixes the malfunction code 53.
   • Check for improper connection of the harness wires (connections 1 and 20) to the ignition coils of cylinders 1.4 and 2.3.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5 ° C. When the ignition key is set to the “Starter” position, the engine “grabs” and stops. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 300 rpm. Self-diagnostics of the unit fixes fault codes 53 or 29.
   • Check for the possibility of erroneous polarity reversal in the harness wires to the CKP sensor (circuits 48, 49).
   • Check the mounting clearance between the end of the transducer and the timing gear.
   • Check the condition and, if necessary, replace the sync sensor with a known good one.

1. The coolant temperature is below 5 ° C. When the ignition key is set to the "Starter" position, the engine "seizes" and stalls. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 400 rpm. Self-diagnostics of the unit fixes fault codes 53, 21 or 22.
   • Check the connection of the coolant temperature sensor or the possibility of erroneous polarity reversal of the wires (circuits 45, 30d).
   • Check the integrity of connections 45 and 30d of the wiring harness to the coolant temperature sensor.
   • Check for serviceability and, if necessary, replace the temperature sensor with a known good one.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 70 ° C. When the ignition key is set to the "Starter" position, the engine starts and stalls. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 1000 rpm. Self-diagnostics of the unit fixes malfunction code 53.
2. 5 seconds after turning on the ignition, check the absolute pressure of gasoline in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge:
   • If it is higher than 3.5 kg / cm² (high pressure), then check the serviceability of the fuel drain circuit (insufficient drain):
     • clogging of pipelines, hoses and drain circuit elements;
     • malfunction (leakage) of the fuel injectors;
   • If it is below 2.5 kg / cm² (high pressure), then check the serviceability of the fuel filling circuit (insufficient filling):
     • leakage and clogging of pipelines and filters of the inlet circuit;
     • malfunction (coking or clogging) of fuel injectors;
     • insufficient performance of the electric petrol pump (the petrol pump is faulty);
     • serviceability of the fuel pressure regulator (the regulator is faulty).

1. When the ignition key is set to the "Starter" position, the engine starts and stalls. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 400 rpm. Self-diagnostics of the unit fixes the malfunction code 53.
   • If the engine starts only when the accelerator pedal is partially pressed (8 ... 20% of the throttle opening), and the unit self-diagnosis does not fix the system fault codes (except for codes 53, 54), then perform preventive maintenance of the bypass channel or replace the additional air regulator.

Malfunctions that appear at the time of starting the engine are quite common during the operation of a vehicle, regardless of the type and design features of the installed power unit (gasoline, diesel, or engine, etc.). One of the most common situations is that after turning on the ignition and turning the key in the lock to the start position, the starter turns normally, but the engine does not start.

A feature of this kind of breakdown is a certain complexity of fault localization. The fact is that it is much easier to look for a problem if, for example, the starter makes a sound, but does not turn the engine, or the gas pump does not pump after turning on the ignition. In any case, the existing problem needs to be solved. Next, we intend to talk about why the engine may not start when the starter turns well.

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The car will not start when the starter is working normally: possible causes

To begin with, at the beginning of the test, you should once again make sure that the starter is working properly. During its operation, when trying to start the engine, there should be no clicks, hum and other extraneous sounds. A serviceable starter should turn the motor with the characteristic hum of the starter electric motor, and do it smoothly, without gaps and failures. If, during attempts to start the internal combustion engine, the indicated signs are noticed, then the malfunction should be looked for in the starter.

After making sure that the starter turns and the engine does not start, it is necessary to proceed to a detailed check of certain vehicle systems. You should start with diagnosing the engine power system, as well as checking the ignition system and some sensors in the electronic control system of the internal combustion engine. In other words, an engine with a working starter often does not start as a result of the fact that no fuel enters the cylinders or the fuel does not ignite for certain reasons.

Checking the fuel system

The reasons for the difficult start of a cold engine. List of faults. What you need to check to diagnose and more accurately determine the problem.

Every car breaks down sooner or later, all car owners face this. Often the starter is to blame for this, sometimes it turns, and the car does not start.

Main reasons

Starter problems can lead to unpleasant situations on the road, and to solve them, you need to use two methods:

1. Fix the breakage yourself.
2. Deliver the car to a car repair shop for specialist diagnostics.

Even if the car still starts, but not the first time, we recommend that you fix the problem as soon as possible, observing the following sequence:

• Check the condition of the spark plugs.
• The malfunction is possible due to clogged fuel filters, which also need to be inspected.
• A weak battery charge also causes this malfunction, therefore, it must be eliminated.
• Inspecting the throttle valve on the car should also be done.

As statistics show, this problem often occurs at negative ambient temperatures. But even in spite of the external conditions, it is necessary to act in exactly the same way. Many drivers rely on self-elimination of the problem, which is considered a gross mistake. The make of the car does not greatly affect this malfunction, but sometimes it occurs due to the design features of the vehicle.

You can go to the Internet and find out a lot of useful information there, but if in doubt, it is better to use the help of an auto mechanic. Drivers often refer to this problem as "the starter jams and the car won't start" and "the car doesn't start right away." By and large, this is the same malfunction, which says that the car is not able to start.

The reasons for the breakdown may be the following:

• defective fuses;
• there is rust on the battery;
• discharged battery;
• the ignition coil does not produce a spark;
• there is condensation on the inside of the hood;
• malfunction of the fuel system of the car.

Starter failure is the most common cause of vehicle ignition problems. You need to know how to check this part for suitability. In new foreign-made cars, the starter motor most often breaks down due to a low level of lubrication or dirt. For such cases, it is recommended to remove it, disassemble and clean it from foreign debris. The amount of lubricants must be replenished. Do not forget that it is better to remove the starter from the car before work.

If the car picks up but the engine won't start

If it is not possible to make repairs in a car workshop, then everything will have to be fixed on your own. This does not require special skills. First of all, you need to clean the contact points of the battery. Also check the spark plugs of the car and clean them from dirt. Bad and dirty starter contacts can also cause engine failure. The best way to find the problem is by elimination.

The fuel supply system also plays an essential role in the operation of the vehicle. With good starter operation, at the time of engine failure, we check it. It is a carburetor, a special pump, etc. It is best to start with the pump. On some vehicles, it may be electric. When the ignition is turned on, the sound of a working motor should be heard, if it is not heard, then it could burn out. Also, a lack of voltage can stop it working. In this case, a fuse check is required.

On the contrary, on carburetor cars, it is necessary to check the mechanical pump. You can find out about its working condition using the hose of the outlet connection of the pump or carburetor. Using a special handle, the condition is monitored. If gasoline starts to spill out of the pump, then the entire system is working properly.

We carry out a similar procedure on injection vehicles. The only difference is the location of the choke. As soon as the valve is pressed, gasoline will spray out of the hose. The fuel must be under high pressure in the fuel pump. In this case, one can judge the good technical condition.

If, after these procedures, the engine also does not start, then it is best to go to a specialist. In garages, it is necessary to carry out a complete diagnosis of the vehicle carburetor. It is virtually impossible to do such a procedure on your own. It is performed using special equipment. Replacement and diagnostics are quite a costly process, so you need to choose a good workshop. Many experts note that in order to eliminate such breakdowns, it is necessary to regularly conduct an initial technical inspection of the machine.

Starter problems

It often breaks down in cars of any production. He lacks the strength to spin, and therefore to bring the engine to work. To solve this problem, you need to know all the vulnerabilities of this machine part. The driver needs to check the functionality. The starter on foreign cars is more whimsical than on domestic cars.

For troubleshooting, it is recommended to remove it from the car and completely clean the body and fasteners. Old grease must be carefully removed from the part. It's easy enough to do, but you shouldn't abuse it. You can check the starter for noise levels. If a click is heard when trying to ignite, and it does not spin, then the reason is in the relay. Therefore, here you will only have to change or repair it. But it should be remembered that the relay is repaired if it is disassembled into its component parts.

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Often there is a situation when you turn the key, the starter turns the crankshaft confidently, but the car cannot be started. Some drive the engine until the battery runs out, in vain hope: what if they grab it. In fact, after two or three unsuccessful attempts, you should start troubleshooting.

1 The engine does not start when the starter is running - possible damage

When the starter turns, and the engine does not start, it is difficult to find the cause right away. It is required to search for faults in quite a few places. Let's start with the starter. Turn the key again and listen to the sounds it makes. It should give off the characteristic smooth hum of an electric motor without interruptions and nothing else. If you hear clicks, hum and extraneous sounds, we are looking for a problem in the starter. In good condition, the engine most often does not start, because no fuel comes in or it does not ignite.

If fuel is supplied, the ignition is in order, the starter turns, but the engine does not start, we look for the reason in the electrical equipment: we check individual sections of the electrical circuit and its elements. The reasons can be as simple as possible: a fuse has blown, there is no contact due to breakage or oxidation. Rarely, but there are breakdowns of the electronic control unit. Sensors may break, which send erroneous signals to the ECU, and the ECU incorrectly adjusts the ratio of fuel and air, its supply to the engine.

It is possible that the engine shakes violently during cranking, it seems to start, but does not grab. The reason may be electromagnetic interference, which prevents the sensors from correctly processing the data and sending a signal to the ECU. The induction can be created by the electromagnetic field of the starter. If the crankshaft position sensor (CMP) malfunctions are present, the engine will fail to start. In this case, the fuel is supplied normally, the crankshaft scrolls well with the starter.

Starting faults, when the starter confidently turns the crankshaft, are quite common and do not depend on the type of engine.

2 Diesel - the specifics of troubleshooting

Fuel ignition in a gasoline and diesel engine is fundamentally different. The compression stroke in a diesel engine occurs without fuel, it is injected at the very end of it, when the temperature in the cylinder reaches 700 °. Fuel ignites on contact with hot air. Excess heat from the head is removed by the cooling system. To maintain the temperature inside the combustion chamber, the temperature required to ignite the fuel, the cold engine is heated by glow plugs before starting.

If a cold diesel engine does not start, we start the search for the problem with the spark plugs. The starter can turn for a very long time, but with faulty spark plugs, even at + 5 °, it is difficult to start the engine, not to mention the frost. First, we check the health of the control unit. We connect the light bulb to the candle bus and the mass, turn the key. If the unit is working properly, the lamp will light up. Then we turn the key to its original position, turn off the power bus and check the glow plugs. We connect one contact of the 21 W bulb to the candle, the other to the plus of the battery. If the candle is in good working order, the light is on brightly.

The diesel engine will not start in any weather if the fuel pump is blown or the shutdown valve is faulty. We check with a light to see if the valve is powered. If there is one, remove and put on the wire leading to it. A working muffler valve makes clicks. If the valve is in order, air remains in the fuel system. We unscrew the return line of the nozzles or the plug through which we will bleed the air. If there is a manual pumping of the fuel pump, we apply voltage to the valve to open it, and pump diesel fuel until it flows instead of air. If the low pressure pump is electrically driven, turn it on.

In case of failure, when it is not possible to pump diesel fuel, we check the fuel filter: it may have been walled up by dirt or paraffin.

3 Gasoline engine - check the fuel supply

The engine does not start if there are defects in the fuel system: no gasoline is supplied, the starting device is faulty. To check the fuel system of a carburetor engine, we carry out the following operations:

1. We sharply open the carburetor throttle valves, observing the gasoline injection (the air filter cover has been removed in advance). If fuel is atomized, it is fed to the carburetor.
2. If fuel is supplied, but it is impossible to start a cold engine, check the starting device. We close the air damper - it should completely block the primary chamber, and the throttle damper should open slightly by 0.8 mm. You will need to remove the carburetor to test the throttle valve.
3. When gasoline is not supplied by the accelerator pump, it is not in the carburetor. We upload it manually, start the engine.
4. We check the operation of the fuel pump: remove the hose from the outlet fitting and swing it. After a few strokes, gasoline should spray.
5. If it was not possible to pump up gasoline, we check the fuel filter, the mesh in the carburetor sump. We change the dirty filter, rinse the mesh.
6. Still not supplying fuel? We disassemble the fuel pump and check the diaphragms. If they are broken, gasoline does not go into the carburetor, but into the sump, diluting the oil.

The oil must be changed, no flushing is needed. We change the diaphragms, pump up gasoline and start the engine.

On vehicles with an injector, the engine will not start if the electric fuel pump is not running. Its serviceability is determined by buzzing after turning on the ignition. Sometimes the reason is oxidized terminals or a fuse, but it happens that the pump burns out. Also, there may be no or insufficient pressure in the rail if gasoline got there. On the opposite side from the gas line connected to it, there is a valve under the cap. We press it - gasoline should spray out from there. If this does not happen, we check the fuel filter, intake mesh, fuel pump pressure reducing valve (located in the gas tank).

4 Ignition - how to find and fix a breakdown

If the malfunctions with the fuel supply have been eliminated, and the car does not start, we begin to check the ignition. We unscrew the candles and check the formation of a spark. We put the wire from the distributor cover on the candle, touch the metal on the car with the skirt, and at this time the assistant turns the engine with a starter. A good spark plug will show a strong blue spark. For an injection engine, the absence of a spark indicates a malfunction of the module, for a carburetor engine, the coil.

The injector module cannot be checked at home, but the coil can be checked. Older models have one cylindrical coil, modern ones have a double or monolithic module. The most advanced short circuits, which are installed on each cylinder directly on the spark plugs without wires. The wire coils are checked simply: we take out the central wire from the distributor, bring it to the metal of the car at a distance of 5 mm and turn on the starter. The presence of a spark indicates serviceability.

Often the distributor fails in the car - the burning of the contacts of the breaker-distributor does not allow the engine to start. If the distributor is non-contact, the Hall sensor may have broken. This is not a typical malfunction - sensors rarely fail. Among the most common distributor malfunctions:

• resistance burned out on the runner;
• the distributor cover is burnt out;
• Hall sensor wires are broken;
• runout of the distributor shaft through worn bearings.

We check the distributor cover by replacing: the car of experienced drivers is always equipped with a spare. Non-contact ignition with a distributor has a switch that is responsible for stable sparking. A defective switch can prevent the engine from starting. We detect the malfunction by hand - the broken switch gets very hot.

In vehicles with an electronic system, various sensors most often fail. The malfunction is fixed, and an error message appears on the dashboard, each of which is assigned a code. Ignition failures are often due to wiring when power is not being supplied. In some ECU malfunctions, the engine cannot be started. We repair the unit in a car service or replace it with a serviceable one.

Often, car owners are faced with the fact that when ignited, the starter only clicks, but does not turn, and, as a result, the car does not start. But it happens that the starter turns regularly, which is audible by the characteristic sound, but the car still does not start. What to do in a similar situation?

Reasons why the car will not start

Any modern car is inherently a kind of symbiosis of numerous units, systems and mechanisms, due to which not only its characteristics improve, but also there are more chances to face a situation where the car simply does not start. The localization of such problems can be different and, as a result, the reasons are different. Among these are:

• Lack of gasoline, oil and other automotive fluids;
• Discharge of the battery and / or the formation of rust (oxide) on its marks, which interfere with the transfer of charge;
• Problems with candles, injector (carburetor);
• Malfunctions in the electronics system;
• Problems in the operation of the fuel pump;
• Clogged fuel and / or air filters;
• Clogged throttle valve.

INTERESTING! Some car companies are committed to providing full service over a specified period of time. So, in the event of any breakdown, the owner only needs to call the warranty service center and specialists will immediately come to perform repairs.

The starter motor cranks, but the engine will not start. How do you find the reason?

The reason for situations in which the engine turns, but does not start, there may be several factors, however, in the event of such problems, first of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the correct operation of the ignition system and the power supply system, that is, the fuel supply.

IMPORTANT! It is advisable to carry out diagnostics of these systems only in those cases when the operation of the starter proceeds without jerks and unnecessary sounds. In this case, the problem usually lies in the starter itself.

Diagnostics of the ignition system

First of all, you need to unscrew the candle and check for spark. To do this, a high-voltage wire is put on the switched off candle, and the metal part of the engine is touched with its skirt. If a spark appears when the engine rotates, then the spark plug is in good order and does not require replacement - that is, the problem lies elsewhere.

INTERESTING! Depending on the type of engine, the absence of a spark indicates problems of various locations. So, problems in an injection car indicate a malfunction of the ignition module, in a carburetor car - a malfunction of the ignition coil.

The ignition module, due to the design and performance features, is almost impossible to check on your own, which cannot be said about the coil.

To diagnose the ignition coil, you need to remove the central wire of the distributor cover and bring it to a distance of about 5 mm to the metal part of the engine, excluding any contact. If there is no spark after cranking the engine with the starter, the coil is out of order.

If the coil is OK, a final check of the ignition system is required remove the distributor cover and check it for defects and damage. If the diagnostics of the ignition system did not give the expected result, and the starter still works, but the car does not start, you need to proceed to the next stage - diagnostics of the fuel system.

NOTE! In most cases, problems of this nature lie precisely in the ignition system, therefore, all stages of diagnosis should be carried out as carefully as possible.

Fuel system diagnostics

Checking this unit should be performed sequentially, starting from the fuel pump and ending with the injector (carburetor).

In vehicles with an injector when the ignition is switched on, the sound of the electric fuel pump operating in the passenger compartment should be heard. If this sound is absent, the reason is in the pump motor - either it burned out or does not receive voltage. Therefore, first of all, you need to check the pump itself and its safety system.

Cars with a carburetor are more difficult to diagnose, since the pump is driven by a camshaft. In view of this, to check, you will need to disconnect the end of the hose from the inlet fitting. So, if after that you swing the pump priming lever several times, then fuel should flow from the fitting or hose.

When the starter turns, but the car does not start, the problem may also lie in the injector ramp, or rather, in the presence of gasoline in it. To check, it is enough to press on the valve of the union connecting the pump - gasoline should come from it.

An obligatory part of the diagnosis is checking the fuel filter for blockages. This is not surprising, because situations often arise when, due to lack of fuel, the car does not start, the starter turns, the relay clicks.

Also follows check throttle, which, if clogged, can cause the starter to idle.

What to do when the engine won't start but the starter clicks

Often, car owners are faced with a problem like "drowned out the car and will not start, although the starter turns." The implementation of the measures and recommendations indicated above, in the majority of cases, can solve the existing problems. However, sometimes the relay may be faulty. To eliminate and eliminate problems of this kind, you should also diagnose the relay, after which you may have to repair or replace it.

Starter relay diagnostics

"The car will not start, the starter is spinning"- the cause of such problems can often be identified and eliminated on their own at an early stage, but for this you need to responsibly and thoroughly diagnose the starter relay.

To check the condition of the retraction relay, first of all, it must be carefully removed from under the hood. After that, the starter must be cleaned of dust, dirt, mechanical debris. Oxidized contacts are treated with fine emery paper.

The next step is to place the starter in close proximity to the battery and prepare two wires of the required length. It is advisable to use wires with crocodiles. Then, with one electric drive, you need to connect the positive terminal of the battery to the same output on the solenoid relay. After that, do the same with the second wire, connecting the minus contacts. If, when connecting the wire to the relay, a characteristic click of the charge sounds, then it is serviceable and can be installed back. Otherwise, it should be repaired or replaced.

Relay repair or replacement

Repair and replacement is a fairly straightforward process:

Summing up, we can conclude that situations when the car does not start, and the starter turns, although they cause some inconvenience, but are often not critical, since they can almost always be resolved on their own.

But do not forget that it is better to prevent the situation than to courageously solve problems, therefore the first rule of the car owner is to regularly check the correct operation of all systems and mechanisms of personal transport.